Yesterday was our free day, what I dub our “mental health
day.” It’s the halfway point in the
study abroad trip and it follows one of the hardest days so far, our visit to
Mauthausen. Students can sleep in, do
their laundry, go shopping, whatever they want.
The past two trips I’ve gone to Salzburg for the day, but it’s
been a while since I’ve been to the art museums in Vienna and it was time to go
back. Several students expressed an
interest in going to the Upper Belvedere Museum, so we went there.
Unfortunately, I turned right into the park when leaving the
S-Bahn, not left into the park, and we walked about 30 minutes out of our way
until I we realized we were going in the wrong direction. We took a bus back to where we started and
from there another tram to the museum.
To make it up to them for misdirecting them so badly, I
personally treated the three students who came with me to the museum. They loved the views and the elaborate rooms
and the art.
The rest of the day, the students went off on their own. Two
told me last night that they had gone to the Freud Museum, closed for
renovations, in order to pick up some stuff at the gift shop. I’ll find out
what the others did today at breakfast.
I went to buy new shoes as I’ve discovered a small hole in
the top of one of my shoes.
Unfortunately, the prices were outrageous. C and A had decent prices (20-30 euros), but
no selection. Footlocker’s prices
started at 100 euros and went up from there.
I’ll wait until we’re in Poland and try again there.
After that, I needed a break from the heat and humidity, so
stopped into Aida for some much needed kaffee und kuchen (specifically, a “mélange”
and a “Eszterhazy Schnitte”), and to read the paper.
Refrshed, I headed to the Albertina, where I’ve seen some
amazing stuff before. The special
exhibit was of an artist I had never heard of, and if I never hear of him
again, it will be too soon. Nitsch was a
leader of my least-favorite post-war artistic movement: Vienna Aktionismus. This involves making art that rips open the
diseased body of Western Civilization to reveal its rotting entrails, and thus,
somehow, cure it of the illnesses that led to the wars and totalitarianisms of
the 20th century.
Nitsch seems to have taken that literally, as he used (animal)
blood in his paintings, sometimes ripping out organs with his hands (and his
assistants’ hands) to smear it on the paintings. Some of the rooms had warnings posted about
violent images. In his “brown series,”
he used paint designed to look like excrement, smeared with actual blood. I didn’t spend much time there.
Apparently, I’m no longer all that avant-garde, since I
rushed upstairs to see the lovely exhibit “From Monet to Picasso.” This collection specializes in
post-impressionist color-theory art.
Each painting was a delight, with no (actual) blood or (faux) excrement
to be seen.
Perhaps my favorite, though, wasn’t even part of the primary
exhibition. For a limited time, two new
rooms have been added with art on loan from the Austrian National Bank. This art was labeled “The Austrian New Objectivity”
– an interwar artistic movement, similar to the one in Germany – but the
collection was far too eclectic to fit into that one description. My favorite piece by far was Robert Kross’ “Terzetta.”
They didn’t have much information on him or what the
painting depicted or even what the title means.
The painting doesn’t much look like the German “New Objectivity”
movement, but is rather more expressionist.
The painting depicts a woman dressed to the nines for a night on the
town, her thin dress revealing much of her cleavage. Her blonde hair is done up in the Jazz 1920s’
fashion, and she’s wearing long, elegant gloves. What struck me, though, is that she isn’t a
young woman going out on the town; she’s definitely middle aged, but she’s not
going to let that stand in her way. As
far as she’s concerned, she’s just as beautiful, just as sexy as any
20-something flapper out in the clubs with her.
The lighting, which creates a halo around her face, is particularly
dramatic.
I wandered around a bit afterwards, getting some pretty good
schnitzel at the train station near the hotel.
I met two students in the lobby and heard about their day. They were hungry and I wanted to get some
buchteln at Café Hawelka, so we pooled our resources. I sat with them and had a beer on the Graben,
and then they joined me for coffee and buchteln at Café Hawelka.
One time I described buchteln as a kind of jelly doughnut
and the waiter became indignent with me, so I was more careful this time. “It’s a yeast-based dough filled with plum
jam and then baked into pull-apart rolls.”
They aren’t all that sweet and they are particularly good when served
fresh from the oven (as ours were).
Slept well last night and today we are off to the Jewish
Museum, the Hapsburg out-of-town palace, and perhaps the Welt Museum before we
take the night train to Warsaw.